All Saints Day, Split, 2021

The front of Maja’s house

Monday morning.

First of November. We have been warned that everything is closed today, but no matter. Maja arrived at ten on the dot bearing two heavy carrier bags, mainly of home made provisions. Her own wine, oil, vinegar, jam. Organic juices, maple syrup, he own grapes, plus cornichons, mayonnaise and some other jars and packages of rice cakes. When would be able to consume all this. No matter.

She was going to take us for a walk round town – now! So on with the coats and in we marched. And what an experience. Split is dominated by Diocletian’s palace, a lot of which is still intact. It is now as it was the town centre, and absolutely magnificent. I remembered a little from having been here in 1968 – but of course the atmosphere is very different now. Then it was full of Titoesque doom – now it is cheerful and cosmopolitan. But it’s November 1st and so not at all crowded.

We had a quick coffee on the steps of the very famous apparently Luxor cafe, exactly opposite these granite pillars which had been brought over from Egypt in 150AD and then we wandered a bit more.

Suddenly we came across some enormous Game of Thrones memorabilia. Apparently some of the episodes were filmed here. Who knew? I’ve never seen the show, but I’ve been on the set!

We walked and saw, walked and saw for quite a while in the old part of town and then returned home via the various markets. Maja bought us some persimmons in the market as we had never tried them before.

Here we have seen so many different fruit growing, ripening now on the trees. Pomegranates, mandarins, persimmons. Such an abundance. In November!

We then went for lunch at Maja’s. She had previously ascertained our vegetarian credentials and we were not disappointed.

Cabbage rolls with tofu and Seiten, sweet potato, salad and red moscatel.

It was absolutely delicious and followed by chestnut crumble with whipped cream.

We had to go back to our apartment to rest as you can imagine before we set out for the evening.

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